DemonRR
06-28-2008, 04:06 PM
ok, this is really simple and easy. it seems like it will be difficult, but in reality its very easy.
difficulty: easy to medium
time: about 20 minutes start to finish
tools needed: rear stand (optional, but not needed (but very helpful), 10mm wrench, digital caliper/ruler with mm scale), rear axle tool from your bikes tool kit
1. put bike on rear stand
2. carefully loosen the lock adjuster bolt on the inside of the axle blocks. there will a bolt and a nut per side. loosen the locking nut on both sides.
3. next loosen the rear axle nut a tad. not too loose so the rear axle slides all over, but loose enough so you can adjust it out.
4. now, turn the bolt (thats pressing on the axle block) out to take up some of the chain slack. do this to both sides of the axle block assembly. i would only turn the bolt 1/2 turn at a time. and check chain slack.
5. follow your manufacturers reccomended guidelines (usually about 3/4" free play from underneath)
6. you may have to tweak the adjuster bolts a bit to get the properr chain adjustment.
7. once the desired chain tightness is acheived, slightly tighten the axle bolt. and lower the bike down and compress the rear suspension.
8. raise the bike back up on the rear stand.
9. check chain tightness again. sometimes it mgith still be too tight, just loosen the axle nut back up, and turn the adjuster bolt back in.
10. once you have the deisred chain tightness, use the digital caliper or tape measure (or even the marks on the swingarm) and make sure both sides are perfect. this is why i use a digital caliper. i can get both side with-in 0.05mm. which is basically dead on.
11. tighten the adjuster bolts and nuts properly. tighten the axle nut to torque specs.
12. lower bike down and compress the suspension. the chain should be at the proper slack. make sure its not too tight or too loose. if it is, repeat from steps 4 and on.
13. go for a ride, and while at speed, let go of the handle bars and see if the bike tracks straight. if it pulls to either side (and its NOT the crest in the road pulling the bike) you misaligned the chain and you need to do it all over.
if all is well, then bring the bike back in the garage and lube the chain.
after a short ride to get the chain warm, put the bike on a rear stand. start bike and put in gear and let the clutch out. the rear wheel should be rolling. now using your chain lube, lube the chain. i lube the chain on the inside (the part that tracks on the gears/sprockets. nice steady stream for the entire duration of the chain. using the rear brake, stop the wheel from rotating. now turn the bike off. get a towel and wipe the entire chain down to remove any excess chain lube. we dont want that slinging off on your tire. this WILL cause you to spin out if it does, so carefull. its reccomended to let sit over night. the next morning, wipe down the chain a 2nd time to remove any excess lube as well.
here is a pic of the digital caliper and where i take my measurements for the chain adjustment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/2loud2k2xd/detailsupplies010.jpg
difficulty: easy to medium
time: about 20 minutes start to finish
tools needed: rear stand (optional, but not needed (but very helpful), 10mm wrench, digital caliper/ruler with mm scale), rear axle tool from your bikes tool kit
1. put bike on rear stand
2. carefully loosen the lock adjuster bolt on the inside of the axle blocks. there will a bolt and a nut per side. loosen the locking nut on both sides.
3. next loosen the rear axle nut a tad. not too loose so the rear axle slides all over, but loose enough so you can adjust it out.
4. now, turn the bolt (thats pressing on the axle block) out to take up some of the chain slack. do this to both sides of the axle block assembly. i would only turn the bolt 1/2 turn at a time. and check chain slack.
5. follow your manufacturers reccomended guidelines (usually about 3/4" free play from underneath)
6. you may have to tweak the adjuster bolts a bit to get the properr chain adjustment.
7. once the desired chain tightness is acheived, slightly tighten the axle bolt. and lower the bike down and compress the rear suspension.
8. raise the bike back up on the rear stand.
9. check chain tightness again. sometimes it mgith still be too tight, just loosen the axle nut back up, and turn the adjuster bolt back in.
10. once you have the deisred chain tightness, use the digital caliper or tape measure (or even the marks on the swingarm) and make sure both sides are perfect. this is why i use a digital caliper. i can get both side with-in 0.05mm. which is basically dead on.
11. tighten the adjuster bolts and nuts properly. tighten the axle nut to torque specs.
12. lower bike down and compress the suspension. the chain should be at the proper slack. make sure its not too tight or too loose. if it is, repeat from steps 4 and on.
13. go for a ride, and while at speed, let go of the handle bars and see if the bike tracks straight. if it pulls to either side (and its NOT the crest in the road pulling the bike) you misaligned the chain and you need to do it all over.
if all is well, then bring the bike back in the garage and lube the chain.
after a short ride to get the chain warm, put the bike on a rear stand. start bike and put in gear and let the clutch out. the rear wheel should be rolling. now using your chain lube, lube the chain. i lube the chain on the inside (the part that tracks on the gears/sprockets. nice steady stream for the entire duration of the chain. using the rear brake, stop the wheel from rotating. now turn the bike off. get a towel and wipe the entire chain down to remove any excess chain lube. we dont want that slinging off on your tire. this WILL cause you to spin out if it does, so carefull. its reccomended to let sit over night. the next morning, wipe down the chain a 2nd time to remove any excess lube as well.
here is a pic of the digital caliper and where i take my measurements for the chain adjustment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/2loud2k2xd/detailsupplies010.jpg