520 Chain Conversion

[Mudpuppy]

This is one mod I have wanted to do for quite some time. Only makes sense. Stock sprockets are cheap and so is stock chain. Its a cheap upgrade that seems easy enough to do. I just have a couple of issues with it that I am hoping someone can clarify for me:

1. I have read online and the guy who sold me the chain have said that 520 chain and sprockets is for track use only. Now I do remember someone who had a liter bike that did the conversion and chewed up the back sprocket rather quick. But someone else pointed out to me that was a liter bike and has alot more torque than a 600. The chain recommendation is for 750ccs and less so I guess I can buy into that argument. Also I would think track use would be more stress on the chains and sprockets - why would road use be bad for a thinner chain and sprocket?

2. Less friction due to lighter weight by doing the conversion should mean more balanced power, better acceleration and less friction but I read that the 520 chain conversion causes more wear on the drivetrain. Can anyone please clarify / explain this? I am not sure I get it.

The guy who sold me the chain said just use a cutoff tool or dremel to cut the mushroomed part of the chain pin so the link on the riveted stock chain just slides out. Someone else said you need the chain tool. To me if I removed the back tire and took the chain off the rear sprocket why wouldn't I just be able to pull the chain off the front sprocket? I am going to keep the stock sprockets and chain as a backup in case I ever need them - otherwise the guy said just buy a link and you can reuse the chain.

Finally I use chain wax for my stock chain. What is recommended for a DID X-Ring chain? Can I use the same clean it with Simple Green, heat it up with a 5 minute ride and apply chain wax? Or is there something better out there?

[lee]

what bike do you have pls

[Mudpuppy]

2000 Yamaha R6

[lee]

2000 Yamaha R6

k. 520 will be fine, and although yes it's true theres less rotating mass and all those other wonderful things, it wont be enough for you to notice the difference between your 525 steel sprockets. you're better off actually changing the gearing ratios to a more streetable setup.

road use isn't bad for a 520 setup, they just don't last as long, which is why people say they're great for track use (people with track setups swap consumables out a lot more reguarly than road users).

i'm not sure 'drivetrain' was an accurate description from whoever told you 520 causes more wear. lowering the front sprocket ratio by 2 teeth or more can put significantly more stress on your gearbox, but not specifically the pitch of the sprockets (imagine riding around on a really low pushbike gear, you'd pedal a lot and not get anywhere. it'd get tiring wouldn't it?)

if you get a rivet link (which you should), the best method for swapping out the chain is a dremel/grinder to take off the mushrooms of a link, push it out, replace everything, and then crimp the rivet link in with a chain tool.you can do it with a hammer, but it takes forever, and you're not guaranteed it'll be a good job.

wax is fine, but it looks like crap and is hard to clean IMO. the best stuff i've ever come across is this chain lube
http://www.motul.co.jp/eg/product_line_up/fork_brake_others/others10.html

it sprays on clear, and is the least flinging lube i've seen. go for a quick hoon, come back, clean chain, reapply. let it dry. goodness.

lee

[Mudpuppy]

thanks for the info.. makes sense if you drop teeth it would wear on the gearbox.. must have been what they meant.. i stuck with stock teeth.. i know dropping teeth also drops top end.. it adds acceleration but i don't feel i need that minimal gain.. i am just looking for more balanced power by using higher quality components.. i am hoping that is the outcome..

what am i missing though? why can't i just take my back tire / chain off rear sprocket and pull it off the front sprocket without ****ing up a link? seems logical to me - is there a chain guard there or something? i am going to have to study my mechanic's manual for the bike.. that and i guess looking at it will help me figure it out.. regardless i will just dremel it off and use a chain tool to put a link back in.. my buddy has a chain tool i can borrow.. probably should have just bought a link while i was there buying my new 520 chain so i had the stock chain at ready in case of issues with the new setup.. i will have to stop by there tomorrow and get a link..

yeah the chain wax is super messy.. thanks for the info on the motul.. i used their fork oil and brake fluid and they both work extremely well..

[lee]

usually the chain is threaded in some way through the swingarm. kind of makes it hard to remove without breaking first. good luck tho :D

[Mudpuppy]

ah yes now it makes sense and now that i think about it i think i can picture that.. dremel it is..

[Headlight]

I did the 520 conversion on my R1 and haven't seen anymore increase in consumables and I use Boeshield T9 spray lube on my chain.

[lee]

I did the 520 conversion on my R1 and haven't seen anymore increase in consumables and I use Boeshield T9 spray lube on my chain.

steel sprocket or aluminium tho?

[Headlight]

steel sprocket or aluminium tho?

Steel front / aluminum rear and I check my drive chain slack constantly.

[lee]

Steel front / aluminum rear and I check my drive chain slack constantly.

Hm. Lucky you. I do know some people that get horrible mileage, some people that get quite good k's out of aluminum sprox

[Mudpuppy]

conversion is complete.. wasn't too bad - about an hour to an hour and a half.. looking forward to trying it out on saturday..

[Headlight]

conversion is complete.. wasn't too bad - about an hour to an hour and a half.. looking forward to trying it out on saturday..

I told ya it wasn't that difficult didn't I?

[duncanmoto]

Just be sure to keep the chain properly adjusted...... (Translation NOT TOO TIGHT) and the wear will not be bad. Most people keep their chains too tight. It will not fall off if you allow the proper slack.

Also. I would not suggest using any kind of general degreaser or grease diluter such as simple green or WD-40 as a cleaner on an x ring chain. The rubber in the x-ring chains keeps the factory grease locked inside the links where it really needs to be. WD-40 can liquify this internal grease and allow it to leak out. Simple green can attack the grease as well past the rubber x-ring. Get a purpose made chain cleaner from Motul or Motorex. :victory: Just my 2 cents.

[lee]

Just be sure to keep the chain properly adjusted...... (Translation NOT TOO TIGHT) and the wear will not be bad. Most people keep their chains too tight. It will not fall off if you allow the proper slack.

Also. I would not suggest using any kind of general degreaser or grease diluter such as simple green or WD-40 as a cleaner on an x ring chain. The rubber in the x-ring chains keeps the factory grease locked inside the links where it really needs to be. WD-40 can liquify this internal grease and allow it to leak out. Simple green can attack the grease as well past the rubber x-ring. Get a purpose made chain cleaner from Motul or Motorex. :victory: Just my 2 cents.

Do you have issue with using kerosene?

[Headlight]

Do you have issue with using kerosene?

Won't that eat the rubber as well?

[lee]

Won't that eat the rubber as well?

Been using it for 3 years now, know a couple of workshops that do the same. Haven't heard any issues. I know wd40 does cause issues because it's a penetrant. Kero is not.

[TXZ0603]

I have a 520 on my Repsol, -1 +2 with a alum rear. No problems. I also use chain wax and clean my chain every 3 rides or after every track day. Kerosene is fine to clean with. Use it on a warm chain, let soak for 2 min, hit with water. Clean as a whistle

[duncanmoto]

Kerosene is the choice of many. I can't say anything bad about it and I've not heard any negative issues with it. Allot of shops use it. I used to use it myself and I think it is probably one of the ingredients in some of the comercial chain cleaners. I like the spray cleaners now just for ease of application.

As I understand it, the problem with the WD-40 type fluids are that they are made to penetrate. The molecular structure is small and they can get past the rubber seal and thin out the factory grease inside the links, causing it to leak out. Of course, to quantify my knowledge I must admit that my information is acquired from reports distributed to us through chain manufacturers and lube and cleaner manufacturers. Take it for what it's worth.

[Mudpuppy]

good to know.. definitely will keep that in mind..

tried the new chain and sprockets this weekend - i am very happy with the results.. cheap mod that made a world of difference.. i would definitely recommend it..

[Ninjachic]

good to know.. definitely will keep that in mind..

tried the new chain and sprockets this weekend - i am very happy with the results.. cheap mod that made a world of difference.. i would definitely recommend it..

Dude that is great and all but please we need a better rundown of your trackday PLzzzzzzzz:drinks:

[whatwhat]

did you adjust the gearing any, i popped a +2 on the rc and on the kawi shortly after getting each, makes a shit load of difference, and as long as you maintain the chain and keep it adjusted a 520 will last on a 600, hell if your diligent enough they work on a rc, but you gotta be anal with the adjustment

[Mudpuppy]

Dude that is great and all but please we need a better rundown of your trackday PLzzzzzzzz:drinks:

saved that for a separate thread - its in the proper trackday section there thread jacker.. lol..

Drewpy (what/what) - no adjustment to gearing - just kept stock gearing. Actually I checked slack after session I & II on the track on saturday and it didn't change. I checked it after session III and it seemed to finally stretch a bit. I need to adjust it before riding this weekend, clean it up and lube it.

[Pippi]

good to know.. definitely will keep that in mind..

tried the new chain and sprockets this weekend - i am very happy with the results.. cheap mod that made a world of difference.. i would definitely recommend it..

Awesome - glad to hear!

I went up 2 in the back and its great.

[Teflon]

One thing thats been said however its a bit wrong....

A new DID 520 chain is actually stronger than most stock 525 setups. Most stock chains are not up to strength that the aftermarket ones are.

[PlayfulGod]

One thing thats been said however its a bit wrong....

A new DID 520 chain is actually stronger than most stock 525 setups. Most stock chains are not up to strength that the aftermarket ones are.

I agree far as 'stock' parts go. But a DiD 525 would be stonger than a DiD 520 tho. :drinks:

[Teflon]

I agree far as 'stock' parts go. But a DiD 525 would be stonger than a DiD 520 tho. :drinks:

Well yeah... lol. I was just pointing out that aftermarket chains are generally stronger than stock ones. So you can get rid of a little rotating mass while keeping the strength. Same goes for the sprockets... but that really depends on the materials or combination of materials.

[Mudpuppy]

well i will find out because i am running it dual duty on track and street but taking the recommendations of cleaners and lube as well as checking the slack constantly.. so i will let you know if it wears prematurely or not..

[lee]

Mudpuppy, couldn't notice any difference tho could ya? :D

[Mudpuppy]

Mudpuppy, couldn't notice any difference tho could ya? :D

it was a big big difference.. pretty f'ing sweet.. i would recommend this mod to anyone and everybody.. its cheap, not hard to do and makes a world of difference.. less rotating mass is a great thing..

yamaha says 40-50mm of slack.. i checked it after my trackday and it appears to be about 50mm of slack although that is without me on the bike..

do you normally check your slack with you on the bike or off? if off do you figure it is more slack with you not on the bike and subtract 1/2" or something? if it says 40-50mm would you lean towards 40 or 50 or in the middle?

[Cutty72]

it was a big big difference.. pretty f'ing sweet.. i would recommend this mod to anyone and everybody.. its cheap, not hard to do and makes a world of difference.. less rotating mass is a great thing..

yamaha says 40-50mm of slack.. i checked it after my trackday and it appears to be about 50mm of slack although that is without me on the bike..

do you normally check your slack with you on the bike or off? if off do you figure it is more slack with you not on the bike and subtract 1/2" or something? if it says 40-50mm would you lean towards 40 or 50 or in the middle?

all the manuals i've ever seen say check it on it's side stand, no rider.

[duncanmoto]

it was a big big difference.. pretty f'ing sweet.. i would recommend this mod to anyone and everybody.. its cheap, not hard to do and makes a world of difference.. less rotating mass is a great thing..

yamaha says 40-50mm of slack.. i checked it after my trackday and it appears to be about 50mm of slack although that is without me on the bike..

do you normally check your slack with you on the bike or off? if off do you figure it is more slack with you not on the bike and subtract 1/2" or something? if it says 40-50mm would you lean towards 40 or 50 or in the middle?

I would go no tighter than the 40mm and tighten it back up when it reaches about 50mm. or so. Be sure to check it again after your 1st few rides as sometimes a new chain will actually get tighter. Don't ask me for the explanation. It's a strange phenomonon. :wallbash:

[Mudpuppy]

thanks for the info

i would assume side stand or rear stand is the same - just easier to check it on a rear stand

[duncanmoto]

thanks for the info

i would assume side stand or rear stand is the same - just easier to check it on a rear stand

Honestly, I check my chain tension just about every time I get on the bike (side stand). I carry the tools I need to adjust my chain on the road. I can do it in minutes while someone is having a smoke instead of checking their chain. I spray with lube when the chain is warm after a ride. Generally every 300 miles or always after it rains even if it's only a couple of miles.

[Mudpuppy]

well for the first time ever i used kerosene to clean the chain and man it works excellent.. i am still waiting for my motul clean chain and motul road lube as the clean chain was backordered due to label issues with the government.. so i took a couple of pictures and thought i'd post them up.. i would highly recommend kerosene to everyone to clean your chain.. works really good and works well on swingarms as well..

[Headlight]

Nice :ok:

[Mudpuppy]

i am just amazed how well the kerosene works to clean it.. i will try the motul clean chain but i am 99.9999% sure i will just stick with kerosene.. its also what yamaha recommends in the service manual..