L♥VE
08-22-2007, 05:03 PM
Pre-Flight Check list.
Preamble: the following is to help people set up a routine for quickly checking their bike when they go for a ride.
The 1st part is in point form as a quick reminder and then I go into further detail below that.
If you find things that are not right you can either fix right away, if you know how and have time, or remember to look at it closely when you do your next maintenance check. but some things are quick and easy so can be put right in a few seconds, ie, lever span.
This list is not written in stone, your bike may not fit this one exactly as it is. So some uncommon sense will need to be applied to add or remove steps that suit your bike. do not worry because, as you get more familiar with your bike, these altered steps will be apparent and no problem to put into effect.
so, it's time to go for a ride.
------------------------------------
in approximate order
• While walking to the bike (general sight inspection)
• Security
• Ignition
• EFI/power valve cycle (if needed)
• Clutch lever
• Gear shift lever
• Engine kill switch
• Choke (if needed)
• Front brake lever and action
• Start button
• Indicators
• Head light (park, low, high and flash/pass)
• Chain tension
• Front switch and tail light (particularly for non-LED types)
• Rear brake switch and action
• Listen to how the engine is running and warming up.
• Throttle
• Mirrors
the list and the order of it should come close to what you normally look at and touch when you 1st get on the bike.
so, now to walk you through it.
[while walking up to the bike]
• While walking to the bike: When you 1st see the bike and are walking up to it, you look at the tyres and see if they look flat or not. if you are suspicious of it, give it a quick squeeze to see if it has pressure. if yes, you can move on, if no then give it a proper inspection now before getting over dressed for the occasion.
Also look for oil spots on the ground, if you keep the area under the bike clean this can be an excelent way to spot a problem before it becomes dangerous.
• Security: remove chains, disk lock etc (and you can inspect the front tyre close up while you are there) also inspect for tampering and give the front fork seals a look at.
[in this portion you typically stand at the left of the bike and have your hands on the handlebars]
• Ignition: inspect the ignition for tampering, then insert the key.
• EFI Cycle: Turn the key and listen to the EFI/powervalve/what ever and note any change from last time you heard it. BMW riders can also check their assisted brakes. :)
• Clutch Lever: Pull in the clutch lever and check it is working as is should be and is right.
• Gear shift lever: Slip the bike into neutral and look at the shift and feel the action with your foot. it is common to park in gear, so the bike does not roll and is less prone to being nudged forward off it's side stand.
• Engine Kill Switch: There is not much to check for, except to feel for corrosion in the internals. a couple of quick on/offs often clears it. and it is just a standard step in the starting process
• Choke: if you need it. is it smooth, is it adjusted to the right range.
• Front Brake: Pull the front brake and feel if it is adjusted right, is working as it should be (or as it was before you left the bike). I put this here because people hold the brake on when starting on the off chance the bike lurches forward and off it's stand. it is also a natural position to if your bike needs a little throttle to fire up and it puts your thumb right where is would be for the next step.
• Start button (as with the kill switch, this is just here as part of the starting process)
[and now the bike is running and warming up]
• Indicators: Flick the indicators to one side to check the globes are working OK and the same for the other. and that the switch is working correctly. and do not forget the dash light. a blown bulb will cause the indicator to flash fast. this item should be replaces at the 1st service station as it is an important safety item.
• Head light: check the switches. again a quick "Does it work? is it working properly?" looking to see that the headlight is doing what it should for the given switch setting. because the tail light is linked to the head light, you should look to see that the tail light comes on when the light switch is in the appropriate position
[time to walk around the back of the bike]
• Chain Tension: Look down at the chain and check your tension with your boot. and generally for oil and leaks if shaft. 2 to 2.5 cm from full up to fully down is right, a little more, like 2.5 to 3.5 cm, and you should adjust the chain in the next 50km. more than 3.5 cm and the chain will be hitting the swing arm, making noise and is often a sign that the chain is on the way out. it is also good to note the lubrication level and if it is in need either give it a quick squirt or better yet, when you top up your fuel so the chain is warm and more accepting of lubricant.
leaks in shaft drives can be deadly, as gear oil from the rear housing has a direct path outward to the tyre and often the brake disk.
[now you should have moved to the right of the bike]
• Front brake part 2: Check the front break light switch is working. that it comes on, and comes on just before the brake pads contact the disk. you should be able to feel the pressure in the line for this.
• Rear brake: Check the rear break works and that it activates the break light. again this is a safety item and should a globe have blown should be replaced at the 1st service station.
• Listen: at this stage specifically the bike will be warming and may need the choke adjusted to keep the engine RPM at the right level for warm up, and sometimes noise if you like to be on happy terms with those near by if it is early in the morning or late at night. listening can happen all through this process as the choke may need checking earlier than this step, each bike is different, and as I said, adjusting these steps to suit your bike is going to happen.
[it's now that you finish dressing up. to get to this stage should take about 1 minute. this leaves you another minute to get helmet and gloves]
• Throttle: can come before or after dressing, but also covers some parts of the listening mentioned above. I have put this in because some bikes like to be given a "blip" to clear the fuelling system of excess fuel that may affect how the bike comes off the choke. it also tells you how the bike is going for warm up and gives you a chance to listen to the engine to hear if it is running how it should.
[sit aboard the bike]
• Mirrors: obviously you are dressed and the bike is warm, check your mirrors are adjusted properly.
That's it.
Go forth and ride, my friends.
Preamble: the following is to help people set up a routine for quickly checking their bike when they go for a ride.
The 1st part is in point form as a quick reminder and then I go into further detail below that.
If you find things that are not right you can either fix right away, if you know how and have time, or remember to look at it closely when you do your next maintenance check. but some things are quick and easy so can be put right in a few seconds, ie, lever span.
This list is not written in stone, your bike may not fit this one exactly as it is. So some uncommon sense will need to be applied to add or remove steps that suit your bike. do not worry because, as you get more familiar with your bike, these altered steps will be apparent and no problem to put into effect.
so, it's time to go for a ride.
------------------------------------
in approximate order
• While walking to the bike (general sight inspection)
• Security
• Ignition
• EFI/power valve cycle (if needed)
• Clutch lever
• Gear shift lever
• Engine kill switch
• Choke (if needed)
• Front brake lever and action
• Start button
• Indicators
• Head light (park, low, high and flash/pass)
• Chain tension
• Front switch and tail light (particularly for non-LED types)
• Rear brake switch and action
• Listen to how the engine is running and warming up.
• Throttle
• Mirrors
the list and the order of it should come close to what you normally look at and touch when you 1st get on the bike.
so, now to walk you through it.
[while walking up to the bike]
• While walking to the bike: When you 1st see the bike and are walking up to it, you look at the tyres and see if they look flat or not. if you are suspicious of it, give it a quick squeeze to see if it has pressure. if yes, you can move on, if no then give it a proper inspection now before getting over dressed for the occasion.
Also look for oil spots on the ground, if you keep the area under the bike clean this can be an excelent way to spot a problem before it becomes dangerous.
• Security: remove chains, disk lock etc (and you can inspect the front tyre close up while you are there) also inspect for tampering and give the front fork seals a look at.
[in this portion you typically stand at the left of the bike and have your hands on the handlebars]
• Ignition: inspect the ignition for tampering, then insert the key.
• EFI Cycle: Turn the key and listen to the EFI/powervalve/what ever and note any change from last time you heard it. BMW riders can also check their assisted brakes. :)
• Clutch Lever: Pull in the clutch lever and check it is working as is should be and is right.
• Gear shift lever: Slip the bike into neutral and look at the shift and feel the action with your foot. it is common to park in gear, so the bike does not roll and is less prone to being nudged forward off it's side stand.
• Engine Kill Switch: There is not much to check for, except to feel for corrosion in the internals. a couple of quick on/offs often clears it. and it is just a standard step in the starting process
• Choke: if you need it. is it smooth, is it adjusted to the right range.
• Front Brake: Pull the front brake and feel if it is adjusted right, is working as it should be (or as it was before you left the bike). I put this here because people hold the brake on when starting on the off chance the bike lurches forward and off it's stand. it is also a natural position to if your bike needs a little throttle to fire up and it puts your thumb right where is would be for the next step.
• Start button (as with the kill switch, this is just here as part of the starting process)
[and now the bike is running and warming up]
• Indicators: Flick the indicators to one side to check the globes are working OK and the same for the other. and that the switch is working correctly. and do not forget the dash light. a blown bulb will cause the indicator to flash fast. this item should be replaces at the 1st service station as it is an important safety item.
• Head light: check the switches. again a quick "Does it work? is it working properly?" looking to see that the headlight is doing what it should for the given switch setting. because the tail light is linked to the head light, you should look to see that the tail light comes on when the light switch is in the appropriate position
[time to walk around the back of the bike]
• Chain Tension: Look down at the chain and check your tension with your boot. and generally for oil and leaks if shaft. 2 to 2.5 cm from full up to fully down is right, a little more, like 2.5 to 3.5 cm, and you should adjust the chain in the next 50km. more than 3.5 cm and the chain will be hitting the swing arm, making noise and is often a sign that the chain is on the way out. it is also good to note the lubrication level and if it is in need either give it a quick squirt or better yet, when you top up your fuel so the chain is warm and more accepting of lubricant.
leaks in shaft drives can be deadly, as gear oil from the rear housing has a direct path outward to the tyre and often the brake disk.
[now you should have moved to the right of the bike]
• Front brake part 2: Check the front break light switch is working. that it comes on, and comes on just before the brake pads contact the disk. you should be able to feel the pressure in the line for this.
• Rear brake: Check the rear break works and that it activates the break light. again this is a safety item and should a globe have blown should be replaced at the 1st service station.
• Listen: at this stage specifically the bike will be warming and may need the choke adjusted to keep the engine RPM at the right level for warm up, and sometimes noise if you like to be on happy terms with those near by if it is early in the morning or late at night. listening can happen all through this process as the choke may need checking earlier than this step, each bike is different, and as I said, adjusting these steps to suit your bike is going to happen.
[it's now that you finish dressing up. to get to this stage should take about 1 minute. this leaves you another minute to get helmet and gloves]
• Throttle: can come before or after dressing, but also covers some parts of the listening mentioned above. I have put this in because some bikes like to be given a "blip" to clear the fuelling system of excess fuel that may affect how the bike comes off the choke. it also tells you how the bike is going for warm up and gives you a chance to listen to the engine to hear if it is running how it should.
[sit aboard the bike]
• Mirrors: obviously you are dressed and the bike is warm, check your mirrors are adjusted properly.
That's it.
Go forth and ride, my friends.